12-19-14

The walls are getting assembled and squared up with tapes. The fit was tight on the top girt. It was good to see it finally together.

After getting both walls together, the connecting girt was placed. In this picture we are looking at the fit to were the faces are contacted. 

The front studs are placed and the 2x6 have been cut and fitted to the walls. The 4x4 studs have been cut to fit into the sill and girt. 

12-19-14

The walls are getting assembled and squared up with tapes. The fit was tight on the top girt. It was good to see it finally together.

After getting both walls together, the connecting girt was placed. In this picture we are looking at the fit to were the faces are contacted. 

The front studs are placed and the 2x6 have been cut and fitted to the walls. The 4x4 studs have been cut to fit into the sill and girt. 

12-12-14

After a ton of work cutting the Mortis' into the posts, the tennons and costom fitting them to each corner it was a good feeling to get them all in. After messing a post up and having to start all over it took a while to get here.

Cutting knee braces took a while to figure out. After we got it down they went really fast. The depth wAs set on the chop saw and they were all cut to the same depth. 

This is the moris that we had to cut out of all the posts. The sides of the flat were drilled out and then drilled again with the right angle drill. Then chiseled out to a 45

11-28-14

This week we made the chain Mortis holes for the flooring system. It's a lot faster to use the chain Mortiser than drilling the holes out. 

This is the finished product for our dove tailes. Half the floor is dove tailes, the other half is just half cut ends that were cut down to fit the member.

Selecting good timbers for corner posts and connecting girts. The straiest ones were used for the posts and the most crooked ones were used for rafters. 

12-5-14 posts

Floor is assembly all together. Plywood is placed to allow the frame to be walked on and the posts can be put in. Had to square and squeeze it together

This is one of the many Mortis joints we need to make. All 4 posts need these done to them.

John is cutting the pieces out of the square beam. It take a lot of time to cut these out and have them come out right 

11-21-14 post and beam

We started cutting the 6x6 sills for the timber frame. John is cutting the ends square so we can cut them to 12'. It takes 4 passes and then cutting with a hand saw to cut them.

This is a practice Morris and tendon for the timber frame. We had to cut the sides out with a skill saw, still the flat out with a right angle drill then chisel the rest out at a 45 degree angle. 

This is a board that we did out practice rafter lay out. We did the ridge board reduction, birds mouth, over hang with plumb cut. It took a few try's to get right

Trusses 11-14-14

We took aluminum coil stock and bent it up to go along the seams of the smart side. John is measuring his bends for the sidding. 

This is the soffit. The plywood was ripped and painted to be finished. The facia board will be put on next.

These are our over hangs for the 12'x24' building. They are made to over hang 12" we used 5/4 and 2x4's to stud it. 

Shed 11-7-14

This week the floor got finished off. The walls were built and sheathing was put on with 7penny nails. Then we had to finish them with a nail set. They went up pretty quick. 

This is the finish product, all of the walls are either 8' wide or just shy of 12'. It took some time to get them all assembled and blocking in. The double top plate was just screwed down to be temporary just like the walls were screwed Together. 

After all the work we did the walls and floor were taken apart. The sections are made for easy assembly. They are all marked so there isn't anything put up wrong. Also so the assembly is quick 

Shed floor framing and skids 10-31

This week we framed up a 12'x24' floor. Used pressure treated lumber and 16penny galvanized nails to attach them with. The ends we're screwed and predrilled to prevent splitting

This is with the two end sections allMost all sheathed with advantech. We used 2x8 pieces to keep the frames square to prevent it from racking as the plywood was put on. Liquid nail was applied to prevent squeeking. 

The 4x4 skids were attached so they could be moved around without breaking. We used 6 and 5" riser screws to attach them to the blocking 

Floor framing

This week we finished putting in the joists. The stair framing was talking a long time and we just didn't have time to finish so the full length joists were put in. 

Plywood being put down and nailed. Lines were snapped at 4'-1/4" so there wouldn't be any over hang. The sheets were then laid out for 16" O.C. So the joists could be placed correctly. 

Metal bridging is used for lateral bracing, to make sure the building didn't move. And it's less time than cutting blocking 

Concrete pour

This week we got the final touches done on the slab. The foam, Vapor barrier and screen got finished up. This is before the pour.

In this photo they are screding the concrete to get the final grade. There are pieces of rebar placed at the finish grade hight. After making your grade height you go back to front with finish grade.

After the slab is set up and has started to harden, you use a trowel to smooth off the top. There are a fine mud like mixture on the top of the slab. This is worked around to make a smooth surface.

There was extra concrete left over so we poured a small slab to place the stairs on.

Foam and framing

Starting Today we framed up some temporary rafters 8' on center to cover the slab in case of possible rain. We also used duplex nails to make sure disassembly would go quick. 

Also we put a lateral brace to make sure the rafters wouldn't rack in wind. 

Starting to frame up the stair well

Openings for our foundation. The box sill has been placed. 

Put the mud sills down after squaring the foundation as much as we could. There was some over hang but the foundation was very out of square. The sill seal was put down below the pt 2x6 because It is permanent. 

Final pieces of rebar are put down and tied together so the rake can pull it up. 

After the floor was screeded the foam could go in. The foam was staggered and 5-1/2" pieces on the edges were put on the wall with a 45 degree angle to allow the concrete to go up to the wall. After the foam the Polly was laid down and taped then 4'x8' sheets of wire was laid down 

Concrete and framing work

The Inside and outside of the foundation needed to be compacted so there wouldn't be any settling after the slab was poured. It's critical to have a good slope for water to shed off after it's complete

Today we finished the mud sills. And started to prepare for the girder to be set. We ran the string line for the top of our plate to make the temporary posts. 

Also we constructed batter boards to practice concrete form framing. It was very tedious and a lot of pre-planning / thinking what the next move would be. 

Shed dormer