Week 28

After the siding was applied the freeze was applied. They have rabbits on the back side of them to account for the siding thickness and sit flush.

The gable end freeze is the same case as the eves, just with this side you cant get as good of a fit because the siding is beveled.

 The nails were also painted so they didn't stick out.

Week 27

Short ledges were used on each side of the window, and measurements from the top of the window was taken to make sure they didn't sag. Staple gun was used for the shingles.

Taking sheathing off the flooring system. Then the joists and girder was taken down.

All the clap boards were nailed up, the top ones needed to be ripped due to being on the furring strips. The bottom clap boards had to be notched around the windows.

Vary close to the having to cut all the shingles from this point on. The ledger will be cut each time to fit good.

We used wide shingles for the ones that went with the rake. Take a large shingle about 8" wide and go from a point back using 22.5 degrees due to the 5/12 roof. These needed to be pre-drilled and then nailed up with 6 penny ring shank nails

Week 26

Shingles are being put up with pneumatic staple guns The strip of ply wood is for a ledger, The bottoms of the shingles need to be put on level. The gaps on the edges need to be about 3/4" away from the other shingles side lap.

The first row was a double lap of shingles. The second row is a single layer, a ledge was used through out the whole shingling process. It went pretty quick after we got a system down.

These are clap boards nailed about 3/4" up from the bottom of the board. We used a story pole to keep the courses where they needed to be.

For seams in the wall we put building paper behind it so water wouldn't be able to get into the sheathing. Lath is used to make a bulk water management system in case it does get behind the siding.

Window trim was screwed on, and lath had to be cut so it would be down to the sheathing. The door trim was hard because it needed to be belt sanded to fit with the soffit.

The gable ends got 3/4" plywood for furring strips, due to the fact shingles are thick and the freeze would have to be adjusted.


Vycor was added to the door for sealing. Bow ties were added to the corners.

Week 25

Furring the walls out to create a place for the water to drain out of behind the clap board. The corners have been furred out too.

This product is called mortair it makes a place for water to drain out behind the siding. Roofing nails are used to attach it.

3/8" furring strips are put around the window. This will then be flashed with the window installed.

Week 24

Roofing is all finished. Used a coil roofer with 1.25" nails. Just fallowed the tabs on the shingles for exposure.

Ridge vent was installed with 2" roofing nails. This allows the shed to breath. Then caps are put on top of the vent.

Shingling is all done, the bottoms were let down 1/4" for water. The gap in the top is for the ridge vent to allow air out.

Week 23

Drip edge has been applied and shingling has been finished. The ridge vent has been applied too. The cap shingles are nailed on with 2" roofers.

Drip edge for the gable has just one lip. The soffit has two lips so the water falls off without going down the fascia. The line is for starter strips for shingles.

The starter strips have been applied and held to the line. Nailed off with 4 nails, Hurricane nailing uses 6 nails.

Week 22

Facia boards have been nailed up. The next step is to put on drip edge.

Returns are being nailed up to see if they fit correctly. The soffit had a little bow in it causing a gap. But caulking will be put in to cover it.


All joints have been zip tapped to create a good seal. Zip tape is like a ice and water shield but not as thick,

Week 21

5/8 zip all applied to the rafters, after laying them out to make sure the rafters are where they need to be.

Straitened the end rafters to keep them strait so when we added the flying rafter on it would be correct.

Soffit with 2" vent strip for added ventilation. Ripped a 2x6 in half to cover the area.

Added onto the lookouts so the corners came out right. They needed to be Craig jigged to be right 

Week 20

John is chiseling out the notch for the rafter to land on to lock them in. It took extreme precision to get these to fit correctly. If the inside was to much of a angle there would not be able to correct it without cutting a filler piece.

Test fit of the end rafters and figuring out what needed to change to make them fit good. It was very tedious. The end result was great.

The middle rafters needed to have marks to get them to line up good. If these were out when we put them in the purlins would not fit good at all. These did not need to be notched because there was no girt to work around.

Week 19

This is the dry fit of the two rafters. It took a little adjusting to make them fit well together. It's a friction fit to the members. The roof is a 12 on 12 pitch.

This is the fork all cut and the missing piece is due to getting to close to the edge of the member. 2" void should be cut out to make the other tong fit into the fork. We used a 2" block to test the width.

This is going to be the fork of the rafter, we found the center of the 6x6 then went a inch in each directions. Then went back the thickness of the member that's butting into this 6x6.

Week 18

The corner had to be shimmed out due to the fact that we are creating a air space for water to evacuate. In this case we used 1/2" plywood

The blocks on the roof are for the fascia to land on. This makes it easier to get the fascia to a point. we cut the angles on the top first then let them run wild.

The fascia was kreg jigged on the back to hold it together good. The seam was wood glued as well. This is for added strength.

This is the first part of a three piece soffit assembly. The 1x6 pine was ripped down the middle and the edge was set flush to the rafter tails.

Another shot of the soffit tacked up to the rafter tails.

Week 17

 

This is a hip jack, I had to bevel my saw to 45 degrees for the ridge cut. The offset is 1 1/16" the birds mouth is set by the maximum allowed  to be cut out of a 2x6.

 

The notch had  to be cut to fit a 2x6 rough cut pine board for the back of the timber frame. It was first marked out then cut with a skill saw. Then we used the right angle drill to get the rest out of it.

This is with the hip/ valley installed as well as all the hip jack rafters. The valley jack rafters were harder to do because of the cheek cuts.

Week 16

This is both the hip and valley with all the valley and hip jack rafters in place. Its very difficult to get all of the 45 degree cuts to come out perfect. If the ridge is out any it will make fitting them a pain.

This is the 45 degree cheek cuts for the end of the valley. This is done so you can have the fascia butt into the corner with some bearing to nail into.

 

This is the first hip jack put in after the valley was in place. The face of them all line up so the cut was correct.

Week 15

This is the hip rafter with the hip jack rafters run into the hip. They are common rafters that are interrupted by the hip. The heal height is set by the 2x6 hip jack rafters.

This is the hip rafter made out of 2x8 due to the large birds mouth. The end was cut at 45 degrees at both sides to make the fascia to come out correctly.

These are the common rafters for the hip and valley mock up. The gusset plates are to hold the bottom of the rafter. We had to shim this one out because of the plates being 1/4' out of level from side to side.