Shed floor framing and skids 10-31

This week we framed up a 12'x24' floor. Used pressure treated lumber and 16penny galvanized nails to attach them with. The ends we're screwed and predrilled to prevent splitting

This is with the two end sections allMost all sheathed with advantech. We used 2x8 pieces to keep the frames square to prevent it from racking as the plywood was put on. Liquid nail was applied to prevent squeeking. 

The 4x4 skids were attached so they could be moved around without breaking. We used 6 and 5" riser screws to attach them to the blocking 

Floor framing

This week we finished putting in the joists. The stair framing was talking a long time and we just didn't have time to finish so the full length joists were put in. 

Plywood being put down and nailed. Lines were snapped at 4'-1/4" so there wouldn't be any over hang. The sheets were then laid out for 16" O.C. So the joists could be placed correctly. 

Metal bridging is used for lateral bracing, to make sure the building didn't move. And it's less time than cutting blocking 

Concrete pour

This week we got the final touches done on the slab. The foam, Vapor barrier and screen got finished up. This is before the pour.

In this photo they are screding the concrete to get the final grade. There are pieces of rebar placed at the finish grade hight. After making your grade height you go back to front with finish grade.

After the slab is set up and has started to harden, you use a trowel to smooth off the top. There are a fine mud like mixture on the top of the slab. This is worked around to make a smooth surface.

There was extra concrete left over so we poured a small slab to place the stairs on.

Foam and framing

Starting Today we framed up some temporary rafters 8' on center to cover the slab in case of possible rain. We also used duplex nails to make sure disassembly would go quick. 

Also we put a lateral brace to make sure the rafters wouldn't rack in wind. 

Starting to frame up the stair well

Openings for our foundation. The box sill has been placed. 

Put the mud sills down after squaring the foundation as much as we could. There was some over hang but the foundation was very out of square. The sill seal was put down below the pt 2x6 because It is permanent. 

Final pieces of rebar are put down and tied together so the rake can pull it up. 

After the floor was screeded the foam could go in. The foam was staggered and 5-1/2" pieces on the edges were put on the wall with a 45 degree angle to allow the concrete to go up to the wall. After the foam the Polly was laid down and taped then 4'x8' sheets of wire was laid down 

Concrete and framing work

The Inside and outside of the foundation needed to be compacted so there wouldn't be any settling after the slab was poured. It's critical to have a good slope for water to shed off after it's complete

Today we finished the mud sills. And started to prepare for the girder to be set. We ran the string line for the top of our plate to make the temporary posts. 

Also we constructed batter boards to practice concrete form framing. It was very tedious and a lot of pre-planning / thinking what the next move would be. 

Shed dormer