Week 20

John is chiseling out the notch for the rafter to land on to lock them in. It took extreme precision to get these to fit correctly. If the inside was to much of a angle there would not be able to correct it without cutting a filler piece.

Test fit of the end rafters and figuring out what needed to change to make them fit good. It was very tedious. The end result was great.

The middle rafters needed to have marks to get them to line up good. If these were out when we put them in the purlins would not fit good at all. These did not need to be notched because there was no girt to work around.

Week 19

This is the dry fit of the two rafters. It took a little adjusting to make them fit well together. It's a friction fit to the members. The roof is a 12 on 12 pitch.

This is the fork all cut and the missing piece is due to getting to close to the edge of the member. 2" void should be cut out to make the other tong fit into the fork. We used a 2" block to test the width.

This is going to be the fork of the rafter, we found the center of the 6x6 then went a inch in each directions. Then went back the thickness of the member that's butting into this 6x6.

Week 18

The corner had to be shimmed out due to the fact that we are creating a air space for water to evacuate. In this case we used 1/2" plywood

The blocks on the roof are for the fascia to land on. This makes it easier to get the fascia to a point. we cut the angles on the top first then let them run wild.

The fascia was kreg jigged on the back to hold it together good. The seam was wood glued as well. This is for added strength.

This is the first part of a three piece soffit assembly. The 1x6 pine was ripped down the middle and the edge was set flush to the rafter tails.

Another shot of the soffit tacked up to the rafter tails.

Week 17

 

This is a hip jack, I had to bevel my saw to 45 degrees for the ridge cut. The offset is 1 1/16" the birds mouth is set by the maximum allowed  to be cut out of a 2x6.

 

The notch had  to be cut to fit a 2x6 rough cut pine board for the back of the timber frame. It was first marked out then cut with a skill saw. Then we used the right angle drill to get the rest out of it.

This is with the hip/ valley installed as well as all the hip jack rafters. The valley jack rafters were harder to do because of the cheek cuts.

Week 16

This is both the hip and valley with all the valley and hip jack rafters in place. Its very difficult to get all of the 45 degree cuts to come out perfect. If the ridge is out any it will make fitting them a pain.

This is the 45 degree cheek cuts for the end of the valley. This is done so you can have the fascia butt into the corner with some bearing to nail into.

 

This is the first hip jack put in after the valley was in place. The face of them all line up so the cut was correct.

Week 15

This is the hip rafter with the hip jack rafters run into the hip. They are common rafters that are interrupted by the hip. The heal height is set by the 2x6 hip jack rafters.

This is the hip rafter made out of 2x8 due to the large birds mouth. The end was cut at 45 degrees at both sides to make the fascia to come out correctly.

These are the common rafters for the hip and valley mock up. The gusset plates are to hold the bottom of the rafter. We had to shim this one out because of the plates being 1/4' out of level from side to side.

Week 14

 

We had to pull up the plates due to not being lay out correctly, also to get the plates to lay flat. Then we layed the plates back out and got them ready for the main ridge and the common rafters to go on.

The 2x6's had just got notched and cut to length. It takes precise measurements to get the 2x6's correctly without having gaps.

The rafters needed to be planed, and this makes them square. It takes a long time to get them square if they are bowed or twisted. They then where rough cut to 6' long.